Even in the heat of summer, it is nice to keep your mind as fresh as an early summer's day. For adult men and women who share this feeling, L'Artisan Parfumeur's number one recommendation this summer is Côte d'Amour. The salty and mystic fragrance of "Fleur de Sel" (flower of salt in French), a rare sea salt gathered in France's Brittany region, creates a relaxed air like an inviting ocean each time you wear it. Accented with everlasting flower immortelle, this fragrance leaves a fresh and vivid impression at work, despite being subtle. Certified as an organic cosmetic product by COSMEBIO, a French organic products certification organization, Côte d'Amour has such a gentle touch when applied that is evocative of a calm summer ocean.

Fleure de Liane leaves an intelligent and non-flirtatious impression with its green floral scent. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour skillfully reproduced the scents of the exotic flowers and tropical rain that he encountered while travelling in Panama, as well as the smell of the earth, which makes one recall forgotten memories. Fleur de Liane was introduced as the fourth fragrance in L'Artisan Parfumeur's Travel Series. It produces a feminine yet dignified atmosphere when worn by women, while evoking a refreshing and breezy atmosphere when worn by men. This fragrance, completed with various intertwined tales, is recommended for use not only for business but also for private pursuits.

Fou d'Absinthe is the first eau de parfum for men released by L'Artisan Parfumeur. Conjuring up an image of the banned liquor, it mixes absinthe together with four kinds of spiced alcohols. Absinthe enchanted many artists and became the source of inspiration for their works during France's Belle Époque era. With its hint of madness and romance, this fragrance is recommended for sophisticated, mature men with elegance and depth. With the season where you feel like taking many more showers drawing nearer, a shower gel from the Fou d'Absinthe Bath & Body collection is another item that should be added to your toiletry shelf.

Inspired by the image of a vivid garden filled with the sunlight of Southern France, La Chasse Aux Papillons is a fragrance for women who want to appear more feminine, soft and elegant. The fresh scent of jasmine, orange blossom and tuberose is reminiscent of an elegant garden filled with flowers, as the name "chasing butterflies" suggests. The combined use of a shower gel and a body cream from the La Chasse Aux Papillons Bath & Body Collection will make your showers even more satisfying.

For L'Artisan Parfumeur, the "INTRECCIO" collaborative series with Bottega Veneta is still a fresh memory. The series originated as Thomas Meyer, the creative director of Bottega Veneta was enjoying candles from L'Artisan Parfumeur. The collaboration of the two maisons is represented by "Artisan Made." Inspired by the four seasons and the beautiful regions of Italy, items such as candles and room fragrances are creating new fragrant stories. Among these items, the Leather Sachet easily allows you to enjoy Bottega Veneta leather and the sophisticated adult fragrance that complements it. If you use a car for business, you might enjoy the fragrance by casually keeping the sachet in your vehicle. When used as a key holder or as an accessory on a briefcase, it will not only serve as a fashionable accent, but it also gives a refined impression with its subtle scent.

When interacting with many people in business, it is important to wear a refreshing and light fragrance. On the other hand, wearing a different fragrance after five enables you to switch between work and play and turns an otherwise normal day into a one of rich, multifaceted experiences. Just like changing your clothes according to your mood or situation, you should enjoy changing fragrances as part of fashion. Spending your days like this opens the door to new discoveries and experiences and this summer, the fragrances of L'Artisan Parfumeur will certainly lead you there.

Since the beginning of the year, even famous brands have been unable to avoid the effects of the economic recession. There were fewer shows being held at the Paris and Milan collections, as some brands switched to exhibitions instead. So where do we stand in respect to fashion? Currently people are more than likely firmly tightening their purse strings. It is precisely for that reason that you need to be wise about shopping, avoiding making any mistakes and learning to make do with what is already in your wardrobe. While now is certainly the time to focus our fashion sense on withstanding the economic downturn, what about finding a way to enjoy fashion wisely with a little help from the professionals?

Based in Tokyo, The Top Notch Group provides personal fashion consulting services. In order to suggest styles that best suit a person's character, individuality and lifestyle, experts - Haruhi Otsuka and Pippa Griffiths - analyze colors, body shape and wardrobes in the client's home. The company also offers services that include accompanying the client when creating personal couture or going shopping - just like having your own personal fashion stylist!

Apart from concerns such as, "I always wear similar outfits," "I don't know which color suits me best," "I have so many clothes that I never wear" and "How can I get closer to my 'ideal image'?" there are many people who can't really enjoy shopping or fashion in Japan because of their intrinsic difference in body shape and/or dress size compared to those stocked in Japanese stores.

"Actually, I get a lot of questions such as 'Where can I shop for my size?' or concerns which focus too heavily I feel  on what is wrong with their bodies." Pippa, the Representative Director of The Top Notch Group, says, "We want to show people that dressing your best need not be difficult or expensive and within this process can help them think differently about themselves." As a self-proclaimed fashion addict, I decided to undergo counseling with The Top Notch Group in order to wash away some downturn blues and become a Recessionister!

This time, I decided to try three courses: Personal Color Consultation, an Image Shape-up and Wardrobe Workout.

We started with an interview session conducted by Pippa and Ms.Otsuka, It was rather like the detailed analysis a doctor at a hospital might provide! I answered questions related to my lifestyle, concerns over my body shape, my favorite colors, my favorite magazines and the image I would like to project. The next step was a color drape test, which involves a total of 120 colored drapes draped over the shoulders to check which colors best suited my skin tone. Female clients are required to remove make-up so that an accurate check of what colors suit the skin tone can be done. "Colors are made up of three elements of hue, brightness and vividness. For example there are numerous kinds of reds depending on the balance of these three elements. For that reason, checking each tone against the skin is important because you find out, whether that vivid red suits you better than a dull red. " says Ms. Otsuka. "It is important to know about colors, since a color that suits you makes you look healthier and more radiant. If you are wearing a color that suits you, you will look and feel more confident and glow - even without wearing rouge!If you wear a color that does not suit you, your skin will look dull!"

Drape colours are classified into four types, spring, summer, autumn and winter. Even similar colours may generate a completely different impression depending on their tone. The base color of your skin tone can either be yellow or blue. And this will  decide which classification you fall into. "When you buy a coat, suit or jacket, it is useful to know your base color," says Ms. Otsuka. In addition to knowing your base color, it is also important to know the colors that do not suit you. Incidentally, colors look the most natural and are accurate in day light at around 11 o'clock in the morning and my consultation was held at around that time. As the consultant holds each of the colored drapes against your face one after the other, she looks at your face and compares effects each makes. You gradually begin to see which color group suits you the best. Despite the fact that I always believed that I don't look good in light toned colors, I discovered that spring tones make my skin look the nicest - which was indeed unexpected. Ultimately, clients will be told which five colors that suit them best.

Knowing your skin base color is important for choosing accessories as well. Gold suits yellow-based skin tones. While silver and platinum are a good fit for blue-based skins. The advice Top Notch provides is detailed and specific to you. For example what kind of natural stones or materials for accessories are best for you and even advice on what colour nail polish for specific occasions or looks will work best with your coloring and ultimate image...

The colour analysis was then followed by the Image Shape-up course, which starts with a detailed analysis of your body shape. By taking measurements and undergoing counseling with Pippa, the closest body shape was chosen from a number of "ideal" body shape sketches. I found out that my body shape is very similar to the "Lean hourglass" body shape. Based on that classification, advice is given on what silhouettes best suit you and those that you should be avoided. As well as how to take advantage of your "assets" and how to conseal your "limitations". Everybody should know what makes them look good, especially with items they wear all the time-- for example the shape of the neckline,  the cut and detail of a skirt or pair of pants. As long as you know what best suits you, you won't fail to dress well, and of course, wear your current wardrobe well and to its full extent, way in to the future! Fashion advice can't get any better than this!

We next moved on to the Wardrobe Workout course. Advice is provided on how to make use of your current wardrobe - item by item - and what additional pieces can be added based on the analysis you have already received on color and body shape. I have a navy blouse that I once bought on impulse, but have always been puzzled as how to make it look good on me. With one piece of advice from Pippa - to use a belt - the blouse was reborn with new sophistication!

Pippa says that there is one vital thing that she wants clients to take away from her sessions "I really want my clients to learn to like themselves as they are, and to understand that we are all different and no one is perfect. Once engaged with this, I want them to explore their personal style themselves - confident in the knowledge they know the basics, ,and can start to have fun with clothing and fashion again." The Top Notch Group also offers services for men, which work to improve their image within a business or leisure-time setting.

Knowing yourself well forms the basis for any situation. It's wonderful to find out which colors and styles best suit you whoever you are. It not only enables you to shop wisely without making mistakes, but also makes you rediscover the joy of fashion! And a little joy is what we all need in these difficult times!

In addition to stores in top locations worldwide, such as New York, San Francisco, London, Berlin and Madrid, Samsonite Black Label opened its first store in Ginza, Japan, in August 2006. The Ginza store was designed by Nicolas Guillot of the "G+a" design agency, who has also designed boutiques for clients such as Christian Dior. Using Black Label's color combination of black and orange as the basic tone, the store is a ravishing showcase of various travel bags, including suitcases. "Japan is one of the most important countries in our market. The Ginza store in particular has one of the widest range of Black Label products worldwide," says Ms. Hayama of the Samsonite Marking Division. When it comes to suitcases, many products are designed for men. This store, however, offers a variety of products for women as well, resulting in a male to female customer ratio of 6:4.

With its experienced international design team in London, Black Label produces not only original collections but also collaborative and archive collections. Every collection is created using the latest design technology and eloquently expresses its individuality. In particular, "Samsonite Black Label by ALEXANDER McQUEEN" was released in 2007 and came about as a result of the fusion of Samsonite's premium craftsmanship and the creations of Alexander McQueen, one of the world's top designers. Since its launch, it has received high acclaim as an exclusive, cutting-edge suitcase. This collaborative collection, which won the Style on the Move award of the prestigious travel magazine "Conde Nast Traveler," exhibits its most distinctive quality in its design. The design of the Hero was inspired by the human form, employing the human torso as its motif, while a crocodile skin pattern is carved on the surface of the Croc. Both share the concept of embodying natural patterns and forms in luggage design. The collection, which was temporarily in short supply in the U.S., can be rated as a state-of-the-art suitcase fusing McQueen's avant-garde designs with Samsonite's cutting-edge technology for functionality and durability.

Of the Black Label collections, the most recommended to businessmen for its supreme practicality and functionality is the "Opto" collection. With "intelligence" resulting from its design and functionality, the Opto series provides extensive features suitable for every type of business travel. Unlike many other suitcases, it needs no optional accessories and comes complete with multiple features as standard, earning it the nickname of the "Mobile Office."

Released last spring, the "Sevruga" collection is Black Label's new face for business travel. Its most striking quality is certainly its innovative design. Inspired by aquatic creatures, Sevruga embodies the design philosophy called Aquadynamics, not only in its exterior, but also in its flow of mechanical motion. As a business bag with new features, such as the use of the latest scientific materials and a rotatable mono tube handle, it is a series worthy of much note.

Crowned with classical yet timelessly adorable elegance, the "Vintage" series will adorn your journey with luxurious glamour. Inspired by days of ocean travel, this series is designed for women and is characterized by its sleek, streamlined style. In addition to its highly fashionable taste, such as the use of a tweed texture and the addition of trendy seasonal colors, the series comes with functional pouches that reputedly help you finish packing in a shorter time. The two types of travel bags, soft and hard, offer a choice to suit your style of travel.

The "Trunk" collection joined Black Label at the end of last year. Its production run is limited to 2,500 items worldwide. In Japan, only the Black Label Ginza store and some other retailers sell this collection. Released as a revival of the luggage trunks that firmly secured Samsonite's status between 1920 and 1930, it is made completely by hand using the same methods as the original trunks. In spite of its authentic original style and vintage taste, the inside is decorated with fabrics featuring bold geometric patterns. It is also equipped with a TSA compatible lock. Samsonite's abundant heritage and craftsmanship are thus reborn as a fashion icon, speaking to the very history of Samsonite. The use of actress Chloë Sevigny as the brand's icon remains a vivid memory.

In addition to the products available online, the Samsonite Black Label Ginza store also offers collections that can't be found outside the store, including a collection of accessories. In particular, passport holders and wallets with eye-catching, rich textures and luxurious details, will add further charm to your journey.

Samsonite Black Label always amazes with its innovative ideas. At the end of March, it will launch a new collection in collaboration with VIKTOR & ROLF as the successor to the collaboration with ALEXANDER McQUEEN. This surely promises to steal the hearts of fashion connoisseurs once more. As it will open new stores in succession nationwide this year, the brand will continue to be in the limelight, especially during its 100th anniversary next year.

Life is a Journey - and for this long journey, Samsonite Black Label offers a way to relish travel with lavish indulgence - and it will surely continue to do so.

"This place is my dream--the place itself is a dream, and it makes dreams come true," says Yuya Hasegawa, the owner of Brift H, who is now the focus of much attention for his work as a bootblack. Though he looks like a boy as he talks about his dream, he is also a business owner with his eyes set firmly on the future. Despite his clean-cut appearance, one can feel the passion simmering within him; even as an occasional expression belies his underlying self-confidence, Hasegawa manages to maintain his modesty. Just 24, this young business owner's motto is "revolution begins from the bottom up." He feels that people's attitudes towards shoe shining need to change, and communicates the value of shoe shining through wide variety of activities. According to Hasegawa, "When your feet change, everything changes--you can tell a lot about who a person is from their shoes. It would be great if everyone felt the same way about shining their shoes before they leave the house as they do about brushing their teeth before they leave the house."

Hasegawa was 20 when he first entered the world of shoe shining. Finding himself without money, he got a job shining shoes for a daily wage on the street in front of Tokyo Station's Marunouchi exit. He bought a shoe shining set for five or six hundred yen at a discount shop and began selling shoe shines without knowing the first thing about it. Then one day, something a customer said spurred him to go see another bootblack in action--and Hasegawa was shocked to find that the shoes the man polished looked nothing like his own. It was then that he became truly fascinated by the world of shoe shining. Hasegawa worked at Marunouchi for a year, then moved to Shinagawa where he worked for three years. Finally, he opened Brift H in  July of last year--four years after he began shoe shining. He says that he's been able to continue shoe shining for so long because "when all is said and done, I enjoy it. To be able to take your own idea and turn it into something profitable--it really feels incredible!"

In addition to running Brift H, Hasegawa leads a busy life as he looks to foster business opportunities. Among his many activities are business trip and home delivery services for individuals or companies, shoe shining performances, and skills workshops. Asked for the secret of his success, he humbly responds, "I'm not there yet," before saying that good timing has been the biggest factor. He explains, "When I began shining shoes, the shoe shining business hadn't taken off yet. This never would have happened if there were tons of people doing the same thing. Trying to get involved in a business that's already well developed is no fun. More importantly, even though there's not yet a market for shoe shining, I wanted to try my hand at a job where there were few competitors. I was the only one. The idea itself pretty much came to me out of the blue, but there's been a logic to everything--in the sense that everything I've done is connected to what I want to be doing."

Hasegawa had dreams of opening his own business since he was a child, and his business has been greatly influenced by his customers--over half of whom are business owners or managers themselves. "I enjoy being able to meet different people and listen to what they have to say," Hasegawa says, "I feel enriched by it." Even if it's learning from those who set a bad example, Hasegawa says that speaking with his customers teaches him all kinds of things.

Brift H stays open until around ten at night, and many customers are businessmen on their way home from work or after-work socializing. The shop's strong supporters include all kinds of customers--from women working at nearby shops to foreign businessmen. When asked why he chose to set up Brift H as it is instead of at a busy hotel or in a busy street, Hasegawa replies, "I wanted to create a kind of lounge where customers could enjoy watching their shoes get cleaned--not a place where people were simply processed one after another.

Keiya Mizuno's book Yume o Kanaeru Zo (The Elephant That Makes Dreams Come True), which sold over a million copies in Japan last year, outlines the steps towards self-improvement and achieving success. The first step is: shine your shoes. According to Hasegawa, "because they are the part of us that gets the dirtiest, and because we must take care of them ourselves, our shoes are a reflection of who we are."

Why not start off 2009 with a shoeshine, and polish up yourself a bit in the process?

Age: 21

Today's point: Purple Tights

Where did you buy?
G.V.G.V. (Coat)

Shopping list for the winter:
Rider's Jacket

'Often wear balck, but always try to mix it with a color as an accent.'

Age: 27

Today's point: Stole

Where did you buy?
Journal Standard

Shopping list for the winter:
Pea Coat

'Each of my items is very simple, but boots-in style and the big stole make a difference from others.'

Age: 21

Today's point: Red Shoes

Where did you buy?
Given by his senior

Shopping list for the winter:
Leather Gloves

'Usually get some fashion inspiration from　films or people on the street.'

Age: 22

Today's point: Glasses

Where did you buy?
Bic Camera

Shopping list for the winter:
Cotton Pants, Boots

'Get some fashion ideas from people on the street or my seniors at work .'

Age: 26

Today's point: Scarf

Where did you buy?
Long Champ

Shopping list for the winter:
Moncler Jacket

'Each items are must for today's cordination.I love jackets. Accessories like the scarf or bag add a good accent to even a plain jacket.'

Ogawa presented her AKIKO OGAWA collection in New York in 2005. Since then, she has been showcasing her creativity in New York, while producing a primary, a second line that offers real clothing for career-oriented women. After starting her fashion career as a designer at an apparel company, she decided to launch her own label when she was 27 years old. "It was just a hunch. I thought that it was the right time." She would continue to rely on her hunches, which led her to many opportunities and people that she seemed destined to meet. "Many people were concerned about me when I went independent. I myself didn't really understand what failure would mean." Despite her company's significant success, Ogawa, rather than being content with the status quo, hasn't stopped challenging herself. A contract with Showroom Seven in N.Y., which counts ISSA as one of its clients, served as a stepping stone to realizing her N.Y. Collection. In addition, her collection dresses designed for celebrities secured a permanent place in an L.A. showroom last October.

The couture of a primary blends the strengths of a self-assured, independent woman with a delicate and feminine side. Different from her collection line AKIKO OGAWA, a primary is hugely popular for its prêt-à-porter line clothing for everyday occasions. Ogawa's former experience as a designer at an apparel company is at work here. "I was constantly challenged to create from the consumer's perspective. That exercise gave me the ability to organically find the something special that the customer, not the designer, would love," Ogawa explains.

The theme of a primary's latest autumn/fall collection is "One and only: Jackie Style." Its First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy look captures an elegant, yet sweet, classic style. "The Audrey Hepburn style is too cute for a primary's clientele, who are professional women. Jackie attended many official functions as the First Lady, becoming a fashion icon in the process. Her classic fashion style shares the very same concept of a primary. For our winter lineup, I added an edge to her style with the use of sharp-looking materials and glossy silk." A Jackie-style, high-waist and compact look is in for this winter, Ogawa says. The key is to mix black and bright colors to be chic and flashy at the same time. "I want women to go to work feeling like Jackie."

While a primary targets the Japanese market, Ogawa also debuted a new line for the international market in her 2007 autumn/winter collection in response to a request from a New York showroom. With a concept of "style-conscious, contemporary everyday clothes," the new line showcases different designs from a primary. Ogawa's N.Y. line embodies the western perspective of beauty. "Sexiness has to exist in the designs." The N.Y. line is also available at the A primary salon in Yurakucho Hankyu, the only store in Japan to sell it. It has already cultivated a loyal following among fashion-savvy professional women. "I think it is nice to offer a different style from a primary. I want to create a version that appeals to the international market."

The fashion world has always been dominated by the European and North American designers. Despite the remarkable international success of Anna Sui and VIVIENNE TAM, as well as Japanese designers such as ISSEY MIYAKE, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons, the global market share for Asian designers remains small. "If I were American, Italian or French, I would simply be known as a "designer." But young Japanese designers in particular are almost always introduced as "Asian" or "Japanese" designers. Eventually, I would like to go beyond that and become a world-class designer." Ogawa, who embodies the image of the self-assured woman her label represents, talks about her commitment to creating original and unique designs of her own, rather than emphasizing Asian flavor.

"Staying positive and believing in myself is my motto. To make my dreams come true, I constantly remind myself to take that to heart." Her forward-thinking attitude and dignified strength must be the reason why her couture is dearly loved by aspiring and chic professional women. Designer Akiko Ogawa continues to face the challenge of bringing her designs to runways around the globe.

Following the men's spring/summer collection shows held in late June, the Milan ladies collection week took place from September 19 to 27.

The ladies collections revealed in four cities - NY, London, Milan and Paris - are considered to be the most important. As opposed to business-oriented NY, avant-garde London and fashionable Paris, the creative skills in the craftsmanship-inspired cut and the enhancement of the features of the original materials are said to be the characteristics of Milan. For some time, the trend has been for couture and elegant taste, while last year's fashions were somewhat led by Milan. I wonder what the trend will be next season. 

The most notable trend in the Milan collections this year was the use of colors, which were similar to colors used in autumn/winter collections, with the use of khaki, brown, bordeaux and dark green. Black was also a standout again this year. On the other hand, there were many colorful prints and brilliant items that looked like stage costumes, featuring lame, spangles and synthetic gem stones.

Examples of the former were the collections of Marni, which used lots of dotted and geometric patterns and Gucci, which introduced a series of tropical prints. Examples of the latter were adopted by many brands, including Blumarine, which used coral motifs and Emilio Pucci, which recreated Pucci prints in spangles. As it turns out, this brilliant trend seems to have been derived from iconic images like Donna Summer and Diana Ross, under the theme of "America in the 80s." Along with this trend, there were a number of jump suits and one-shoulder and body-conscious dresses.

In addition, functional lines and masculine looks were other common themes. Many brands used materials that sway along with the movements of the body like Prada, while other brands included jackets in their collections, such as Armani and Jil Sander, both of which are good at this kind of style. Many of the jackets had silhouettes that emphasized the shoulders and now I wonder if the shoulder-pad boom of the 90s is coming back.    

During the collection, a number of shop openings and special events were held in addition to the shows and exhibitions. Many new boutiques including Giorgio Armani and Moncler opened. Highly-publicized special events included the 50th anniversary exhibition of Mila Schon, which was deeply memorable because of the death of the designer just before collection week, the 80th anniversary retrospective exhibition of Salvatore Ferragamo and the unveiling of the Tod's promotional film, which was attended by performers Gwyneth Paltrow and Dennis Hopper.

On the other hand, Italian women wear a great deal of variations, much like in other countries. They do, however, avoid certain fashion items, and are not given to being particularly trendy. Instead, they evaluate clothing as to whether it fits them, with regard to body type, skin and hair, and eye color. They then put together a presentation that gives them a beautiful, sexy look. This look includes tops that show a fair amount of cleavage, hip-conscious pants, mini-skirts above the knees, and letting the navel show. This style is one that is uncommon for Japanese women to sport past a certain age, but it is very common in Italy. Another oft-seen style is of simple dresses combined with dazzling jewelry and large stoles, or tops with volume and slim bottoms. Indeed, Italian women tend to be very skilled at achieving overall harmony in their outfits.  They meticulously select items that are just right, and wear them with confidence. In fact, that confidence is probably a big part of the attractiveness of Italian women.

At ADMJ, leather, metal, and cloth are the most essential elements in the creation process, or as Kobayashi calls the materials, the DNA of the brand. The leather is all selected and imported from Italy by Kobayashi himself. He regularly visits the Italian tanners and says,"If I am convinced enough that I can't find the leather anywhere but here, or the leather is the best in the world, then I get it." In addition to the careful selection, the leather is hand finished and the artificial materials he selects for ADMJ's accessories are all environmentally conscious--reusable and recyclable. Besides his tenacity in selecting supreme materials from overseas, Kobayashi himself also develops his original materials and metal parts in collaboration with tanners and metal designers in Japan. "It's the brand's mission," he explains. "I do not design the bag. Instead I choose the materials and find the best combinations of them: metal pieces with the textures, considering even their background."

With its classy outward appearance, the C-tote also displays the Japanese aesthetic tradition monodukuri, which is the concept of industrial art with an artist's mind. For Kobayashi, this means details like sewing and materials are the most important elements, and in this aspect he follows the model of what distinguishes Japanese designers from those overseas: "the concentration on undersurface," as he puts it. Japanese designers dedicate their focus not solely to the design but to the details that only the dexterity of craftsmanship can produce. "To me, this is where the significance of making things in Japan lies," says Kobayashi. In Tokyo, the C-tote has been made by the hands of craftsmen who keep in close touch with Kobayashi.

In each collection, the C-tote does not only ravish fashionistas but it also attracts the eyes of window shoppers with its color and design variation. Kobayashi grew up paying attention to the rich seasonal changes and he now uses that as inspiration. The combination of red and yellow leaves, the dark brown of a tree trunk, and purple berries become his basis for deciding the color scheme. For Kobayashi, as each different component in nature　harmonizes and completes the aesthetic scenery, "balance" is his definition of beauty. In his latest collections for autumn and winter, the C-tote represents this philosophy with vivid vermilion and deep green.

Today the tote is a sought after item by women all over that long for the luxurious ADMJ purses, but according to Kobayashi, it was not a big seller in the beginning. In this voraciously consuming society, the majority of designers send out products that are a passing vogue, but Kobayashi persists in creating what he believes is good regardless of the buyer trend. "When you keep doing something steadily, there comes the day when it is something very firm, something people will remember for a lifetime." True to his beliefs, the C-tote is now a symbolic item of ADMJ with its stylish beauty. By inheriting this tradition, the Tokyo-made artisan bag continues to fascinate women worldwide.

 

**　The C-totes in the pictures above are temporarily not available at stores.

ADMJ    Accessoires De Mademoiselle Limited Company
http://www.admj.co.jp/

--Now 2008-2009 Autumn / Winter Collection is available.

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In mid-June, when Japan is still in the throes of its rainy season and summer has yet to begin in earnest, next year's early summer collection is being announced in Italy. First is Pitti Uomo, held from June 18 - 20 in Florence, and following that, the Milan Men's Spring and Summer collection is put on from June 21 - 25 in Milan. Pitti Uomo is primarily an exhibition of classic-style makers, while the Milan Collection is, as you may know, out on with fashion trends on display. This arrangement allows one to see all the trends of the coming season by seeing both shows.

The Pitti Uomo show, perhaps because it is a spring and summer show, not only featured staid classic styles, but also mixed in some casual tastes and vintage finishes; indeed, the overall feel was one of making small changes to give a lighter feeling. The colors used were quite colorful as well. For example, a surprising number of brands had jackets with pre-washed looks, and many brands were working hard on items with a resort feel, such as bermudas and polos.

Other collection names included Luigi Borrelli's "Luxury Vintage," as well as a line adorned with Old English-style emblems, Boglioli, which is a new collection of well-known piece-dyed jackets, among others. Further demonstrating the vintage feel of the exhibition was Marina Yachting, which announced a sport-style archive collection, and North Sails, too.

In the Milan Collection, too, there seemed to be an overall softness and natural sense. Many of the colors were also soft, as in ice gray, light blue and sand beige, or they were high-sensitivity, as with white or navy. Dolce & Gabbana brought out pajama-style pants, Versace gave a completely casual feel by not releasing any ties at all, and Burberry Prorsum's wrinkled material jacket was impressive.

Other points of interest included Armani's use of a scarf from the first look, as well as India-inspired multiple varieties of wide pants cinched on the lower back. Also, Ferragamo showed shirts and knits that looked to have great breathability, while Missoni brought out many safari jackets and knits; there were also numerous other notable items. On the other hand, while there were some standout featured accessories such as mega-bags, bow ties, and scarves, one hint for the coming season may be to wear clothes softly, catching eyes by combining them with standout accessories.

*(photo at the upper right) The Pitti Uomo venue. Every year, a colorful display is set up in front of the venue, and this year's theme was bicycles. / (photo at the upper left) From Luigi Borelli's new collection "Luxury Vintage." / (photo at the lower right) From the Giorgio Armani show. / (photo at the lower left) From the Ermenegildo Zegna show. Mega-bags were one of the most noticed items in the show.

We are scheduled to feature the Ladies' Collection sometime in autumn. 

That Italian suit culture was learned from England as well, but its tradition came from Italians traveling to England for training, then returning to their hometowns with the suit culture, after which each region established its own style. These styles now exist as "Naples-tailored," "Florence-tailored," or "Milan-tailored," etc. Their tastes are all slightly different, and any suit connoisseur finds these points to be very important. 

The largest basic difference between English and Italian suits is that while an English suit has thick fabric and forms a firm silhouette, an Italian suit is said to create a soft silhouette by taking into consideration the entire body's shape. That is why Italian suits are often described as "elegant" or "sexy."

The most symbolic of the Italian suits is the Naples-tailored variety. It is light, flexible, and easy to wear, and is often described as a "suit that is like a shirt." The fronts of the shoulders are given greater width to avoid interfering with arm movement, so-called "mani camicia" sleeves are made for the armholes to enlarge, and armholes are calculated higher to make the arms fit inside, among other specifications.

On the other hand, Milan-tailored suits are closer to their English counterparts in that they are a firmer style, conservative in decoration, and have few creases, which give them a more refined reputation than Italian suits from the South. Compared Naples, where people generally enjoy more colorful suits, Milan's suit-wearers tend to stubbornly stick with dark navy or gray.

The capital of the renaissance, "Florence-tailoring" is said to create suits with beauty in mind, selecting round, beautiful curves for the front of the body, having few darts. Its rounded lines, which give roundness and lower the shoulders to the back, are a prominent feature.

By the way, these suits are hand-made to order, but there are also semi-order and prêt-a-porte arrangements that utilize the taste of each brand. There are also many such discount suits for sale at Japan's high-volume retailers, for your information.

*(photos at the right)  A factory of the well-established tailor "Kiton" in Naples / (photo at the left)  "A. Caraceni" hand tailored jacket (by STEFANO TRIULZI)

One of the most eye-catching items within this style is the navy blazer, which symbolizes the "Ivy Look" boom that swept Japan in the 1960s. Its strong image as a uniform piece has ensured that it has always been known as a longtime favorite, but this season it is being recommended by all manner of select shops and large department stores, causing a resurgent trend.

At the popular select shop EDIFICE as well, navy blazers and light gray suits are selling briskly. The trick with the navy blazer is to fully and modernly utilize its high-class matchability as a longtime business favorite.

At EDIFICE, the traditional American Ivy League style is expressed by matching a navy jacket with gray slacks. Perhaps the most important point of all is to wear a striped shirt that uses yellow, a currently trendy color, with a 5cm narrow solid knit tie.

"Size feel" is also an important point. In contrast to the blazers of the past, these are a tight, smart fit, giving a sharp look in the v-zone.

Now let's look at some coordinates which incorporate elements of EDIFICE'S recommended "British style" (photo at right).

Matching a window pane-patterned suit with a Gingham-checked shirt - check on check - is the point here. This is a modern-looking, tight-silhouetted two button suit. The window pane pattern and change pocket give a classical impression, and it goes perfectly with a Bordeaux dotted tie.

Next, for this season's no-tie styles such as Cool Biz, the cotton suit is one to watch.

Whether at work or at play, this versatile item works for a broad range of occasions, and is one we strongly recommend this season. Different from the feeling of a wool suit, this suit provides a flexible fit that only cotton can provide.